Petite Sirah is a deeply colored, tannic grape that California does particularly well. Gehricke, a Sonoma County winery, makes a version with blackberry, blueberry, black pepper, and a touch of violet over a full, firm frame, with more freshness than the grape's heavy reputation suggests. Gehricke, 2023 vintage. Decant for an hour before serving. Pour with smoked brisket, pulled pork, or a mushroom and blue cheese burger.

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