Nychteri is a traditional style from Santorini — the name refers to harvesting and pressing at night — made from Assyrtiko grown in the island's volcanic soils and aged longer before release. Gaia Wines, a leading Greek producer, makes a rich, structured version: lemon curd, dried apricot, smoke, saline minerality and firm acidity. Gaia, 2020 vintage. Serve cool rather than cold, and consider a decant. Pair with grilled whole fish, lobster, or roast chicken with lemon.

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