Pinot Noir is an ancient variety, genetically unstable and prone to mutating — which is part of why it varies so much. Silky texture and moderate weight — this is a wine of perfume rather than power. Volcanic Jory soils and sedimentary sites give Willamette Valley wines a distinctly earthy signature. Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee, 2022 vintage. Serve slightly cool, around 60°F; a warm pour loses most of the detail. Good with grilled salmon, roast duck, or anything with mushrooms.

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