Madiran, in southwest France, is the home of Tannat, a grape named for its tannin, and Alain Brumont's Château Montus is the estate that showed how serious it can be. This is dark, powerful wine: blackberry, black plum, licorice, and spice with a firm, dense structure that rewards time. Château Montus, 2020 vintage. Decant for at least an hour, or hold it several years. Pair it with duck confit, cassoulet, or grilled lamb chops.

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