Castellare di Castellina is a Chianti Classico estate in Castellina, and Poggio ai Merli is its single-vineyard Merlot, a Toscana IGT. Merlot takes on a firmer, more savory shape in these hills than it does in warmer places: ripe plum, black cherry, cocoa and dried herbs over smooth, fine tannins. Castellare, 2020 vintage. Decant for 45 minutes. Serve with roast duck, beef tenderloin with porcini, or truffle pasta.

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