Nebbiolo makes Barolo, and Barolo's calling card is the gap between how it looks and how it behaves. Pale garnet in the glass, then tar, dried rose and sour cherry on the palate, carried by serious tannin. The Langhe hills of Piedmont are fog-prone and steep, and the region's best sites face south for every hour of sun they can get. This is the 2004 from Boroli Cerequio. Give it plenty of time open before pouring. Made for rich, slow-cooked dishes and cold weather.